A traditional delicacy from Konavle
Most cheeses have a rich historical heritage and the production of cheese in Dubrovnik is no exception. Since ancient times, local cheese has been an important food in the diet of the population of this area. Cheeses had no specific names; they were simply called aged or fresh, sweet or salty. Local people especially appreciated fresh cheese that had holes in its structure. Prices varied depending on type, supply and demand, as well as the season, but the government always sought to make cheese available to poorer citizens, and ensured a supply of sufficient quantities during times of shortages and war. The cheese trade brought good profits to sellers, as well as to the state, which collected taxes and fines. The inhabitants of the former Dubrovnik Republic valued cheese so much, that Dubrovnik craftsmen in the hinterland often were paid for their services in cheese, or sometimes, they bartered important foodstuffs for cheese.
At that time, the largest number of cattle pastures were located in the mountainous region of Konavle, home to famous cattle breeders and cheese producers. They often grazed cattle in the neighboring mountains of Herzegovina in the summer. Cheese from the Konavle mountains has always been famous for its special flavor, thanks to the clean air where the animals reside, as well as the various aromatic grasses that the livestock feed on.
Cheese producers took their surplus products to the town square, where they sold cheese alongside fruit and vegetables. Cheese set aside for their own consumption was stored in earthenware vessels and covered with olive oil to preserve it from spoiling, thus extending its shelf life. In historic times, and even today, the most renowned and highest quality cheese is made from sheep’s milk of the indigenous breed Dubrovačka ruda (Dubrovnik ore). This cheese, according to its composition and quality, belongs to the group of full-fat, hard cheeses, and its rind is shiny because it is rubbed with oil during the ripening process.
As recently as twenty years ago, almost every house in Konavle had several sheep or goats. The craft of cheese production has evolved for centuries, with the aim of providing the best possible nutrition and enjoyment. Acquired skills of cheese production have been passed down for generations. The tradition of making Dubrovnik cheese on family farms, with certain technological changes, has been maintained in Konavle to this day, where goat, sheep and cow’s milk cheese is produced.
On the Trojanović family farm, wife and husband Vojka and Nikša, are engaged in cattle breeding and agriculture. In addition to six dairy cows, they have two bulls and three calves. Our host, Vojka, learned her knowledge of making cheese from her husband’s mother. She didn’t teach her the details of making it, she would just tell her: “Learn by watching!” She closely monitored her every move, which is why today she skillfully makes quality and tasty cheese. In the past, cheese production was considered women’s work, and most often cheese was made by the oldest woman in the family.
The Trojanović family cows feed exclusively on organic food without any additives. Every morning and evening the cows are milked and they produce an average of 12 liters of milk a day. Sometimes there are up to 24 liters of milk a day. To produce cheese, only fresh milk is used, into which rennet is added. The milk then curdles and creates grains that are then mixed and collected by hand. When the grains no longer separate from each other, the process ends, the cheese is salted and put into molds. The molds are pressed to drain the remaining whey. This fresh cheese can readily be consumed after being pressed. The Trojanović family only produces fresh cheese, for which there is high demand.
The cheese that will be dried is stored in an airy place for several hours and is then taken to an airy room for ripening. During the ripening process, cheeses are turned and coated with olive oil, to prevent the development of mold and to improve the quality of the rind. The dried cheese is placed in earthen pots or glass jars, and olive oil is poured over it. Due to its quality, smell and taste, cheese aged in oil has become a symbol of the Dubrovnik region.
In the past, as a prized food staple, cheese was given as a gift during major holidays to the owner of leased land. In Konavle, it was customary for a mother to visit a married daughter when she first gave birth. She would bear gifts in a Konavle-style woven basket, most often eggs and plenty of cheese. Even today in this region, cheese is happily given as a gift to dear friends.
At Konavle’s rural homesteads, guests are always offered homemade cheese, fresh, dried or aged in oil, along with prosciutto, pancetta and pickled vegetables. Organic, natural and homemade products grown in clean soil constitute the basis of the traditional Konavle menu, which provides a unique gastronomic experience for the palates of the most discerning guests.
By: Jadranka Ničetić